The process begins …
This is the original source I was given to work with:
A factual book, with text and illustrations based on different types of weapons and armour throughout the ages.
I began to explore the book through reading, and drawing some of the illustrations from the book. Here are some of those first drawings I did:
I enjoyed drawing these, but I struggled to find a strong narrative at this point. So I decided to pick an era from the book to try and find a sequential idea. I picked the Viking era, and wrote a few ideas down. After settling on two to try, I drew some more draft sketches. Here are some of those drawings:
I then decided upon one story line, which was that of the shape shifting Viking God Loki. However, I found there was not enough narrative to explain the story with just those draft sketches. So, I decided to use some informative text and text graphics with old and new images. I drew the new book design out on individual pieces of A6 paper. I drew the second colour layer images first, as I wanted to see the hard lines of structure of the image before drawing the first colour layer. I used the light box to then draw the first colour layer, by placing the second colour layer images onto the light box underneath the paper for the first colour layer design. Which allowed me to see the areas I wished to use to create a tonal or block colour effect, to design the first colour images. I wanted to use the first colour layer as a tonal effect, which I feel worked quite well. Once I had finished the designs, I laid the first colour layer onto the light box, then placed the second colour layer on top of that. At this stage it is all hand draw with black Copic marker for the first layer, and black fine liner for the top layer. Here is a photo of how it looked on the light box:
I am excited to see how it will look with colour.
After deciding I am happy with the design, I then scanned each individual image into the computer. I used Photoshop to crop each image and place them onto an A3 horizontal page. Which I had already made a grid on, using the ruler guides to create the eight individual A6 sections for the flat layout of the screen print book. I had to use free transform to resize and rotate the images to the correct formula that would allow the book to be folded up, to display the images in the correct sequence. Here are the finished Photoshop designs:
First colour layer:
Second colour layer:
The next stage of process for the screen printing was, to print a one copy of each of the layers onto A3 paper. I then used the light box again to check alignment of the images, seeing as I moved things around in Photoshop previously. Thankfully I was happy to go ahead without needed any adjustments.
I used a cloth to rub lots of linseed oil over the top of the papers, which was then left over night. This made the paper almost transparent and ready for image exposure onto silk screens. Sadly I did not take any photos of that part of the process, though thinking on it now I would have like to have done so. Perhaps next time.
So, the silk screen had already been prepared for me with a special type of medium used for image transference. I laid the papers onto the special machine (forgot the names of the equipment and the medium used previously .. will update this when I ask again), then placed the silk screens on top. Pulled the cover down, switched on the UV light … pressed the nice green button for about 15 seconds. Then switched it off, and took the papers and screens out.
The next part of the process was to power wash the silk screens, until they were clear of the residue in the negative spaces of the transposed images. This was to prepare the screen for the ink passing through the desired places. I had to allow the screens to then dry, and helped them dry a bit faster by using the hand driers on them.
I wanted to have a look at different colour choices for the screen printed book before mixing up paint, so I used Photoshop to change the colours of the design. I colourized each individual layer different colours, and merged the two layers together to view the colour choices. I did this a few times. Here are some of those designs:
I tried some turquoise blues, which contrast nicely against the red. This gave a 3D effect, similar to the styles used in movement drawings or actions drawings.
This dark green and black design felt a bit too flat.
The orange and brown colour scheme looks more like sepia tones, but doesn’t create the best effect.
The pale blue and pink surprised me in how effective it looks, it also feels more fun and playful. These will be the colours I use in the printing process.
Now that I have chosen my colour schemes, I mixed up the correct tones for each colour with acrylic paint and added the same quantity of screen printing medium (forgot to note the name .. again will edit this part too) into the mixture. I used a board with vice grips at the top of the board, on the table to attach the first colour layer screen in position. Lifted the screen up out of the way, and placed the desired paper underneath the screen on top of the board. I made sure the paper was in the best position and bought the screen down onto in. I then used a plastic paint knife to put a generous amount of paint across the top edge of the screen, and pulled the ink through at a 45 degree angle with the squeegee (I think that is what the tool is called, I will check this also). I had to scrape off excess ink from the squeegee and replace it to the top of the screen each time, sometimes having to use the knife to move ink from the bottom of the screen and putting it back to the top. I pulled the ink through twice for each piece of paper.
To create the second colour layer, I took that screen off the board and replaced it with the second screen. To help align the image layer correctly, I made the first print onto tracing paper. First the tracing paper was placed on top of the board, with the screen hinged up out of the way and placing the paper in the right position to receive the design through the silk screen. The tracing paper was positioned towards the edge of the board on the right hand side, with tape laid across the length of the horizontal edge away from the desired area. I made a hinge on the tracing paper, by folding it back onto itself along the crease of where the tape had been laid. Then the paper was placed back under the screen, the screen is brought down on top of the paper. I used a plastic paint knife to put a generous amount of paint across the top edge of the screen, and then pulled the ink through at a 45 degree angle with the squeegee (I think that is what the tool is called, will check this also). I did this once for the tracing paper on the silk screen, then lifted it up and was able to use the tracing paper as guides for the second layer of ink to go on. I slid the paper underneath the tracing paper, and masking taped just next to the edge of the paper when it was in correct alignment with the tracing paper image. So it could be used as rough guide. I also used masking tape on the corners of the paper to hold it in position, so the paper would not lift when pulling up the screen. I folded the tracing paper out of the way, on its hinge. Then I placed the screen down, and pulled ink through in the same manner twice onto the paper. I checked to see how it had came out, and though I like the texture of screen printing and the effect. It seems that perhaps my screen was blocked in areas, as some of the lines of the images and text did not print too well. I tried on a few prints to use a small lino piece to push the ink through specific places, where it had not previously taken. This worked a little but was not overly effective.
I allowed the designs to dry, and cleaned up the paint pots and squeegees in the sink. I had to clean the screen with the power wash again, which I seemed to get a bit covered in spray back. So I did use a mask for that bit in the end. I left the screen to be completely cleaned by the staff that deal with the chemical removal process for taking the images and mediums off of the screens.
I picked my favourite ones from the screen printing process. I trimmed it down using the guillotine and folded it into a book, which was fun!
To fold it into the right lay out: I made the first fold with the paper laid out in portrait, from right side to the left. Then unfolded that and folded it in half, from the top edge to the bottom. Then unfolded that and folded the top edge to the middle crease, then the bottom edge to the middle crease. I unfolded it all again. Then took a ruler and paper knife, to make an incision along the central vertical crease. Which started from the first horizontal crease line to the third. Then I pinched the paper in along the second horizontal crease, pushed both sides of the paper out to back onto themselves. Which then can be folded, using a bone folder to help crease the paper nicely.
I took photos of my completed book. Here are some of the photographs:
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COVER
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PAGE 1
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PAGE 2
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PAGE 3
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PAGE 4
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PAGE 5
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PAGE 6
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PAGE 7
I scanned one of the best ones into the computer, to keep digitally. Also to play with in Adobe Photoshop. Here is the scan:
I like the effect, and enjoyed the process. Though I felt the colours are slightly more muted in these prints than the digital version, and a bit of the text is missing. I thought I could edit a scan of the print in Photoshop to change the colours or retouch the text. I did make three edits, just of the colours:
This was my first edit of the screen printed book:
I like how it kept the texture and I was able to just make the colour pop! I cropped the scanned images slightly, upped the contrast. Pushed the brightness up, and the vibrance levels. I turned the saturation up also, and saved the image as a JPEG for my blog.
I did not exit the image at that point, I just pushed the invert adjustment to create this edit:
I quite like the grungy, negative effect on this.
I went back to the original scan and created a more old fashioned one. I cropped the scan again, used the black and white adjustment. I upped the contrast, pushed the brightness down. Turned up the exposure very slightly, used selective colour to turn the blacks up a bit. Then upped the vibrance, and put a photo filter of warming (81) onto it. Which I also saved as a JPEG for my blog. Here it is:
I like this older effect too. I feel that the motion theme is carried on through all of the images, partly due to the slightly staggered alignment. It gives the feel of action, importance and urgency. I really enjoyed the process of making this, and would love to do it again.